Q. Which kind of olive oil is best?

A. Olive oil comes in several varieties extra virgin, virgin, pure, and light. Nutritionally, they are not significantly different from one another. From a health stand point all are excellent choices. Which is best depends on your taste and how the oil is used.

Each of the varieties of olive oil are classified by flavor, color, aroma and by their acidities. Where the olives were grown, the maturity of the fruit and how they were stored and processed determine these characteristics.

Extra virgin olive oil is lowest in acidity (less than 1 percent). Because it comes from the first pressing of olives, extra virgin is the richest and fruitiest in taste. Its color also may range from pale yellow to greenish gold. Use this type of oil when olive taste and aroma are desired: over greens, for dipping with breads, or drizzled over pasta or into soups. This oil has the lowest smoke point of the olive oils (about 400 F) so use it only for light sautéing.

Virgin olive oil also comes from the first pressing of olives, but it's acidity is a bit higher (about 2 percent). It has a smoother, more mellow taste than extra virgin olive oil and may be preferred by those unaccustomed to full flavored extra virgin oil. Use it when a less pronounced olive flavor is desired: in sauces, marinades, over salads or in vinaigrettes.
Pure ("classic") olive oil is a combination of extra virgin and virgin oils. It is fuller bodied, milder in flavor and lighter in color than virgin oils. Acidity is less than 3 percent, and smoke point is medium-high (about 438 F), making it useful brief for stir-frying. It also may be used in salad dressings or over pasta.

Light olive oil is filtered to remove the flavor and odor of the olive, making it a good substitute for other vegetable oils. It has the highest smoke point (468 F) and can be used for baking, and shallow or deep fat frying.

All of the above oils are not significantly different nutritionally. These oils are primarily monounsaturated and, when used in recommended amounts as a part of a heart healthy diet, can lower total blood cholesterol without lowering HDL ("good") cholesterol levels. Replace foods high in saturated fat (butter, hydrogenated margarine, creamy toppings and cheeses, or baking ingredients like shortening) with olive oils.

Note: Olive oils contain the same number of calories as other fats and oils (120 per tablespoon). All fats and fatty foods are generally high in calories and may lead to increased weight. Extra pounds increase your chances of developing heart disease and some cancers. So if you need to watch your weight, use all fats including olive oil sparingly.

Some interesting facts about olive oil:

* The olive tree produces about 40 pounds of olives each year. It takes about 10 pounds of olives to make 1 liter of oil.

* Olive trees are long-lived: the normal span is from 300 to 600 years. When they die, new shoots spring up around the base and grow into a new tree.

* Historically, olive trees and their oils were native to Asia Minor and spread to the Mediterranean region about 5,000 years ago. It is only in the past several hundred years that this evergreen and its fruit came to the Americas.

* It is believed that the early Egyptians used extracts of olives and their oils to assist with the movement of the stones that were used to build the great pyramids.